“Stop to appreciate the rich burnt orange silk and intricate floral designs of this Japanese haori. Its hidden inner lining, alive with birds and butterflies, offers a delightful secret world of beauty.”
This vibrant haori, a traditional Japanese jacket, bursts with a rich burnt orange crepe silk, a color that seems to glow from within. Its surface is alive with stencil-dyed designs of various flowers: irises, plum blossoms, chrysanthemums, wisteria, and peonies, alongside delicate Chinese bell flowers. The careful arrangement of these motifs suggests a thoughtful composition, perhaps reflecting the changing seasons, a common theme in Japanese textile arts. The jacket’s inner lining, a contrasting white silk, reveals an entirely different tableau of birds, flowers, and butterflies, creating a hidden world of detail that only the wearer or a close observer would see. This intimate layering speaks to a tradition where beauty was often appreciated in subtle, personal ways, a private delight meant to be discovered.
- Artist
- Winifred Nicholson
- Date
- 1944
- Medium
- Burnt orange crepe silk with stencil-dyed designs of iris, plum, chrysanthemums, wisteria, peonies, and Chinese bell flowers; lined with white silk decorated with bird, flower and butterfly designs
- Location
- Art Institute of Chicago
- Dimensions
- 110.5 × 132.3 cm (43 1/2 × 52 1/8 in.); Neck to arm: H.: 55.6 cm (21 7/8 in.)
What to Notice
Five details hide in plain sight. Here’s where to look.

The subtle sheen of the burnt orange crepe silk.
The delicate stencil-dyed irises on the outer fabric.
The lively bird motifs hidden on the white silk lining.
The variety of flowers, from plum to wisteria, adorning the jacket.
1 more detail is waiting.
See all 5 in Art Whisper →Winifred Nicholson
1893–1981 · United KingdomWinifred Nicholson, a British painter, captured the vibrant essence of still lifes and landscapes, often exploring the interplay of light and color.
Further Works by Nicholson
More works to explore
Beyond Nicholson: works from the same years.
Same era · 1920s–1950s
Greyed Rainbow
Jackson Pollock · 1953 · Art Institute of Chicago
Same era · 1920s–1950s
Sun Spot
Yayoi Kusama · 1953 · Art Institute of Chicago
Same era · 1920s–1950s
Deux personnages
Pierre Alechinsky · 1950
Same era · 1920s–1950s
Impregnazione
Piero Manzoni · 1958
Same era · 1920s–1950s
The Temptation of St. Anthony
Ivan Puni · 1945 · Art Institute of Chicago
Same era · 1920s–1950s
Nighthawks
Okada Saburosuke · 1942 · Art Institute of Chicago
Same era · 1920s–1950s
The Indestructibles
Philip Evergood · 1946 · Art Institute of Chicago
Same era · 1920s–1950s
Red No. 2
Sam Francis · 1954 · Art Institute of Chicago
Same era · 1920s–1950s
Summer Night in Arizona
Max Ernst · 1944 · Art Institute of Chicago
Same era · 1920s–1950s
Freedom of Worship
Norman Rockwell · 1943 · Norman Rockwell Museum
Same era · 1920s–1950s
Untitled (Woman-Bottle)
René Magritte · 1943 · Art Institute of Chicago
Same era · 1920s–1950s
Dancing Girl
Paul Klee · 1940 · Art Institute of Chicago




