Haori by Winifred Nicholson

Haori

Winifred Nicholson · 1944

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“Stop to appreciate the rich burnt orange silk and intricate floral designs of this Japanese haori. Its hidden inner lining, alive with birds and butterflies, offers a delightful secret world of beauty.”

ABOUT THIS WORK

This vibrant haori, a traditional Japanese jacket, bursts with a rich burnt orange crepe silk, a color that seems to glow from within. Its surface is alive with stencil-dyed designs of various flowers: irises, plum blossoms, chrysanthemums, wisteria, and peonies, alongside delicate Chinese bell flowers. The careful arrangement of these motifs suggests a thoughtful composition, perhaps reflecting the changing seasons, a common theme in Japanese textile arts. The jacket’s inner lining, a contrasting white silk, reveals an entirely different tableau of birds, flowers, and butterflies, creating a hidden world of detail that only the wearer or a close observer would see. This intimate layering speaks to a tradition where beauty was often appreciated in subtle, personal ways, a private delight meant to be discovered.

DETAILS
Artist
Winifred Nicholson
Date
1944
Medium
Burnt orange crepe silk with stencil-dyed designs of iris, plum, chrysanthemums, wisteria, peonies, and Chinese bell flowers; lined with white silk decorated with bird, flower and butterfly designs
Location
Art Institute of Chicago
Dimensions
110.5 × 132.3 cm (43 1/2 × 52 1/8 in.); Neck to arm: H.: 55.6 cm (21 7/8 in.)
LOOK CLOSER

What to Notice

Five details hide in plain sight. Here’s where to look.

Haori
01

The subtle sheen of the burnt orange crepe silk.

02

The delicate stencil-dyed irises on the outer fabric.

03

The lively bird motifs hidden on the white silk lining.

04

The variety of flowers, from plum to wisteria, adorning the jacket.

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THE ARTIST

Winifred Nicholson

1893–1981 · United Kingdom

Winifred Nicholson, a British painter, captured the vibrant essence of still lifes and landscapes, often exploring the interplay of light and color.

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