“This isn't just a cap; it's a dazzling display of 17th-century embroidery, where humble linen is transformed into a luxurious statement of wealth and skill with silk and gold threads.”
Take a close look at this man's cap, a surprisingly elaborate accessory from the early 17th century. Made of fine white linen, its surface is completely covered with an intricate pattern of embroidery. The delicate silk floss creates swirling floral motifs, while the gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk adds a luxurious shimmer, catching the light as you move around it. This wasn't just a simple piece of headwear; it was a statement of status and wealth, designed to be seen and admired. The variety of stitches used (buttonhole, chain, long-armed cross, ladder, outline, and running stitches) demonstrates the immense skill of the embroiderer, transforming a practical item into a wearable work of art. Imagine the hours of meticulous labor that went into creating such a detailed and opulent cap.
- Artist
- Saks Fifth Avenue
- Date
- 1601
- Medium
- Linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk floss and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, in variety of buttonhole, chain, long-armed cross, ladder, outline, and running stitches; woven wheels
- Location
- Art Institute of Chicago
- Dimensions
- 15.9 × 19.6 × 19.6 cm (6 3/8 × 7 3/4 × 7 3/4 in.)
What to Notice
Four details hide in plain sight. Here’s where to look.

The glint of the gilt-metal threads among the silk.
The tiny, perfectly formed woven wheels within the design.
The crisp white linen beneath the dense embroidery.
The subtle variations in texture from different stitch types.
Saks Fifth Avenue
From a Washington D.C. men's shop in 1867 to a Fifth Avenue icon, Saks dressed America's elite for over 150 years.
Further Works by Avenue
More works to explore
Beyond Avenue: works from the same years.
Same era · 1580s–1610s
The Entombment of Christ
Caravaggio · 1600 · Pinacoteca Vaticana
Same era · 1580s–1610s
The Feast in the House of Simon
El Greco · 1600 · Art Institute of Chicago
Same era · 1580s–1610s
The Capture of Samson
Peter Paul Rubens · 1609 · Art Institute of Chicago
Same era · 1580s–1610s
Flower Arrangements
Artist Unknown - The Mercat Cross, Aberdeen · 1595 · Art Institute of Chicago
Same era · 1580s–1610s
The Feast in the House of Simon
El Greco (Doménikos Theotokópoulos) and workshop · 1608 · Art Institute of Chicago
Same era · 1580s–1610s
Winter Landscape with Snowfall near Antwerp
Jan Brueghel the Elder · 1610
Same era · 1580s–1610s
The Calling of Saint Matthew
Hendrick ter Brugghen · 1609 · Museum of Fine Arts, Budapest
Same era · 1580s–1610s
Merrymakers at Shrovetide
Frans Hals · 1610 · Metropolitan Museum of Art
Same era · 1580s–1610s
The Virgin and Child with Saint Anne
Georges de La Tour · 1600 · The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Same era · 1580s–1610s
La Pratique de l'Aiguille, page 14 (recto)
Matthias Mignerak · 1605 · The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Same era · 1580s–1610s
Flowers and Birds
Zhou Zhimian · 1595 · Los Angeles County Museum of Art
Same era · 1580s–1610s
Female Head
Gaetano Gandolfi · 1592 · Art Institute of Chicago

